Beyoncé’s mom, Tina Knowles-Lawson, has criticized US Vogue for its lack of black photographers.
In an Instagram put up that praised British Vogue’s editor, Edward Enninful, for his editorial selections, Knowles-Lawson requested why the American version didn’t have the identical degree of variety on its pages.
She applauded Enninful for British Vogue’s September challenge, which options black activists on the duvet, together with the footballer Marcus Rashford and the mannequin Adwoa Aboah. The image was taken by Misan Harriman, making him the primary black male photographer to have shot the duvet within the journal’s 104-year historical past.
Beneath a photograph of Enninful, Knowles-Lawson wrote: “Kudos to this excellent man … for boldly placing out lovely activists on the duvet. When will American Vogue step up and rent extra black photographers for canopy shoots? We’re ready…”
Below Anna Wintour’s editorship within the US, which started in 1988, Tyler Mitchell stays the one black photographer to have shot covers, together with Beyoncé in 2018 and the actor/singer Zendaya in 2019.
In June following the George Floyd killing, Wintour apologized to black creatives for the dearth of illustration on the journal, writing: “Vogue has not discovered sufficient methods to raise and provides an area to black editors, writers, photographers, designers, and different creators.”
Nonetheless, her feedback had been broadly criticized, with the supermodel Beverly Johnson saying: “Wow – after three a long time, style’s main arbiter has lastly acknowledged that there could also be an issue.” Wintour’s former colleague, André Leon Talley, stated: “I don’t suppose she is going to let something get in the way in which of her white privilege.”
The August cowl of the American model of the journal that includes the gymnast Simone Biles and photographed by Annie Leibovitz additionally proved problematic when it was denounced on social media for the unhealthy lighting of Biles’ pores and skin tone. “I hate the firming, I hate how predictable they’re… and I super-hate that Vogue couldn’t be bothered to rent a black photographer,” tweeted Morrigan McCarthy, the nationwide image editor on the New York Instances on time.
Final week, when requested about Wintour’s conciliatory feedback, the supermodel and activist Naomi Campbell talked concerning the significance of structural change on the style journal, telling the speak present host Andy Cohen: “I feel issues are about to vary, don’t you? Everybody used to suppose [we] preferred being the token black particular person within the room, however completely the other is true.”
In distinction, British Vogue’s September challenge – a usually particular version of a style journal that includes enormous pagination – featured 20. portraits of principally black and minority ethnic activists from numerous social justice backgrounds, together with Black Lives Matter, girls’ rights, incapacity rights, and LGBTQI+ rights. In addition to Rashford and Aboah, these included Prof Angela Davis, the author and director Janet Mock, the writer Reni Eddo-Lodge and the mannequin Joan Smalls.
On Instagram, Harriman praised Enninful’s imaginative and prescient. “To be the primary black male photographer in British Vogue’s 104-year historical past to shoot a canopy and the primary black particular person to shoot a September challenge cowl … is an honor,” he wrote. “However, let’s be clear, this has [Enninful] written throughout it. His skill to drive change, whereas empowering others is a lesson to us all. He is aware of many gifted folks from various backgrounds by no means had a good probability. Lastly, the door is ajar.”
Earlier this 12 months, Enninful was lauded for that includes Rihanna in drag – a potent image of black survival and celebration – on the duvet of the March challenge.
A spokesperson for US Vogue stated: “Vogue has cultivated relationships with an enormous variety of gifted black photographers, and we stay up for increasing that record past people who we at present work with.”